January 21, 2014

This morning, in construction jargon, "it's raining like pouring piss out of a boot."  It has rained and been overcast almost the entire time we've been it Italy.  It hasn't mattered so much when we were in big cities.  But here on the coast, how nice it would be to have clear blue skies over a beautiful blue sea.  I keep waiting for clear skies for a good snap of the view from our bedroom window.  Still no joy.

Irrespective of the sky, though, the sea is a beautiful clear blue.  Massive waves smack up against the unyielding rocks with huge sea-noises.  Not sure which I admire most:  the sea for trying, or the rocks for being so badass.  I guess it's a draw, like it has probably been between these two forever.

Luciana comes with the Big Tray amid this downpour and a mini-gale force wind.  I'm amazed.  "Luciana, please come in before you blow away!"

"Ehh, it's winter," she shrugs.

We debated about just staying in for today, reading and catching up on sleep, but common sense and cabin fever took over.  We decided to drive east to Amalfi, which will give us a view of the spectacular Amalfi Coast.  Maybe we could find lunch there?  Maybe it's not all shut down like Positano for the winter?  We will see.

I took a photo of the car's GPS showing the route along the coast from Positano to Amalfi.  Just so you can see this is clearly not a ride for those with twirly stomachs.

Here are a few observations of common Italian driving habits that also cause twirly stomachs:

• The center lane marker is merely for looks.  Drive wherever you feel comfortable, especially  if you're chatting on your cell phone.
• There's no need to look before you pull out into traffic.  Or to turn in front of it.
• You can stop in the middle of the road no matter where you are.  Optional:  use flashers.

Italian cars and scooters have a hard, hard life.  I am glad they are not horses.  Parking is always on the sides of the streets; and the streets are so narrow you must fold in your side view mirrors or they will get torn off.  Cars here are equipped so that when they're started, the side view mirrors fold back out.  Huh!

Yes, this is the main thoroughfare.

The width of the Amalfi coast road is about the same as our driveway.  The difference is, if you slip off one side of the Amalfi road, you'll plunge about a thousand feet into the sea after crashing onto a bunch of scary rocks.  On our driveway, you'll just get in the grass and risk incurring the Wrath of Jack.

The stomach-twirly road almost but not quite leads us to Amalfi.  Crap!  Closed for repairs.  We double back and stop at a spot for some amazing photos.  What I didn't notice was the wind was at gale force.  When I opened the door a powerful vacuum sucked every map we owned into the sea.  Curses!

The view along the Amalfi coast

Where we parked (remember, I said parking was a premium here) belonged to an Italian pottery store, so in we went.  It reminded me of all the interminable tourist joints leading up and into, Gatlinburg Tennessee, except there were no chenille bed spreads and house coats.  And not a single Elvis.

We bought some pretty trinkets and some Italian seasonings for pasta sauce, dried mushrooms (fungi), flavored olive oil, and local wines.

Still no luck with a place for lunch.  The pottery shop lady recommended a pizza joint in the nearby town, but it was closed.  It looked snaky, anyway.  We returned to the house.

The Italian seasonings, dried mushrooms, and flavored olive oil worked well with some pasta and sauces we'd bought the day before.  A late lunch, but a yummy one.

Still raining -  see construction reference at start of entry.