December 28, 2013

So - today we met another partisano at Albino's office.  His name is Fiovanni Perenzin and he is the president of the Partisano Association.  After introductions went all round, we piled into two cars for a trip to the Museo Partisano. 

The Chuck and Fiovanni Perenzin

It's a journey that takes us through little winding roads, up and down mountains.  Presently we stop at one house that was identified as the house whereHoward Chappell was captured by the Nazis nearly 70 years ago.  It appears not to have changed a bit.

Albino, Fiovanni, and The Chuck

Here is the house where Howard Chappell was captured by Nazis

We went down an amazing set of  eight switchbacks on a one-lane road with eight 90-degree tunnels.  The name of the switchback is called Boldo Pass, near Trichiana.  Perhaps there's a photo on the Internet of it?  It's really spectacular.  I'm guessing the change in altitude when we entered the little valley as about 2500 - 3000 feet.  The fog made it difficult to get a decent picture of the switchbacks.

From the base of the switchbacks, looking up.  

Then through a couple of little villages by a lago (lake).  Up, up, again on a narrow twisty road until finally we reach the museo.  It's a small building overlooking a valley encompassing a park.

Partizane Museo

There's a beautiful and moving statue of a woman holding the body of her son.  The misting rain condenses on her cheeks and runs down like tears.

The plaque reads, “From Ultimate Sacrifice, Freedom."

On the hillside opposite the little Museo is a small marker to commemorate the Partizane who sacrificed their lives.  

Jack and Lee 

Inside the museo are mostly photographs and captions in Italian.  There's a photo of Howard Chappell being presented the Silver Star.  It's very cold in the museo so I don't stay for long.  Chuck is speaking to Albino and Fiovanni and translating to Jack, his sister Lee, and husband Gary.

Beside the museo is a small restaurant that specializes in wild game.  We're seated at a long table where one end is next to a wood-burning stove.  I stake out my turf there.  The proprietors are a husband-and-wife team that are happy to see us.

The owner points to a license to sell wild game.

We're asked what we'd like and Chuck replies, "Surprise us!"  Out comes a huge platter of spaghetti and sausage.  It was a very simple presentation and incredibly delicious.  Soon I'm stuffed.  Out comes more food.  Mamma mia, when will I learn?  Platters of vegetables, home cured proscuttio and plates of fresh bread.  Then fresh-baked berrry pie.  The husband summoned all the guys in our group to the little bar in the front of the restaurant.  He had some homemade grappa he was very proud of.  Gary brought back a big shot glass of it to me and Lee.  Frankly, sitting as close to the fire as I was, I was afraid it would spontaieously combust and we would be done for.

It also smelled like turpentine. 

Later I learned he had made it from pine cones.  It figures.

Not much more to report for this day.