December 29, 2013

Slow morning, rain and fog.  Jack, me, Lee, and Gary go off in search of (1) fuel (benzina); (2) an autoteller; and (3) a laundromat.  Got the fuel and the benzina, no laundromat within 60 km of here according to Siri.

We came back for lunch at Nogherazza where we were met by a severely hung-over Chuck.  He wasn't his ebullient self.  Lynne was infirma, with a very bad itchy rash that seemed to be spreading. He had a meal with us; disappeared and reappeared with Lynne in about 45 minutes.  So the lunch ended up being about a three-hour spread.

Next to us, a big table filled up with a family celebrating a nona's birthday.  They sang happy birthday to her in Italian, and then, to her surprise, we sang happy birthday to  her in Englese.  She came over to thank us and asked us where we were from.  Just like always, her response to our answer was, ah, Las Vegas!

Nona’s Birthday Party

Then Chuck took us to Andrea's house.  Andrea is the owner of Nogherazza.  He is an Italian nobleman, a Count I think.  His "house" is a understatement.  It is a castle.  He took great pride in showing us the renovations he'd been making to a castle that was at least two centuries old.  He has big plans for an outbuilding next door.  An indoor swimming pool and four bedrooms above!

Andrea holding court in his kitchen.  I perform an engineering plan review while Gary observes.

His wife is one of the Ferragamos, as in the shoe dynasty.  I think they have a few coins to rub together.

We returned to Nogherazza for dinner.  I gave up after the secunda course and escaped to our room and this blog. Poof!  If this continues, I will weigh 400 lbs. when we leave.

December 28, 2013

So - today we met another partisano at Albino's office.  His name is Fiovanni Perenzin and he is the president of the Partisano Association.  After introductions went all round, we piled into two cars for a trip to the Museo Partisano. 

The Chuck and Fiovanni Perenzin

It's a journey that takes us through little winding roads, up and down mountains.  Presently we stop at one house that was identified as the house whereHoward Chappell was captured by the Nazis nearly 70 years ago.  It appears not to have changed a bit.

Albino, Fiovanni, and The Chuck

Here is the house where Howard Chappell was captured by Nazis

We went down an amazing set of  eight switchbacks on a one-lane road with eight 90-degree tunnels.  The name of the switchback is called Boldo Pass, near Trichiana.  Perhaps there's a photo on the Internet of it?  It's really spectacular.  I'm guessing the change in altitude when we entered the little valley as about 2500 - 3000 feet.  The fog made it difficult to get a decent picture of the switchbacks.

From the base of the switchbacks, looking up.  

Then through a couple of little villages by a lago (lake).  Up, up, again on a narrow twisty road until finally we reach the museo.  It's a small building overlooking a valley encompassing a park.

Partizane Museo

There's a beautiful and moving statue of a woman holding the body of her son.  The misting rain condenses on her cheeks and runs down like tears.

The plaque reads, “From Ultimate Sacrifice, Freedom."

On the hillside opposite the little Museo is a small marker to commemorate the Partizane who sacrificed their lives.  

Jack and Lee 

Inside the museo are mostly photographs and captions in Italian.  There's a photo of Howard Chappell being presented the Silver Star.  It's very cold in the museo so I don't stay for long.  Chuck is speaking to Albino and Fiovanni and translating to Jack, his sister Lee, and husband Gary.

Beside the museo is a small restaurant that specializes in wild game.  We're seated at a long table where one end is next to a wood-burning stove.  I stake out my turf there.  The proprietors are a husband-and-wife team that are happy to see us.

The owner points to a license to sell wild game.

We're asked what we'd like and Chuck replies, "Surprise us!"  Out comes a huge platter of spaghetti and sausage.  It was a very simple presentation and incredibly delicious.  Soon I'm stuffed.  Out comes more food.  Mamma mia, when will I learn?  Platters of vegetables, home cured proscuttio and plates of fresh bread.  Then fresh-baked berrry pie.  The husband summoned all the guys in our group to the little bar in the front of the restaurant.  He had some homemade grappa he was very proud of.  Gary brought back a big shot glass of it to me and Lee.  Frankly, sitting as close to the fire as I was, I was afraid it would spontaieously combust and we would be done for.

It also smelled like turpentine. 

Later I learned he had made it from pine cones.  It figures.

Not much more to report for this day.

December 27, 2013, Part IV

Yesterday we went with The Chuck and Lynne back to Conigliano.

The purpose of yesterday's visit was to meet with the Mayor at City Hall.  Chuck wants him to officiate his wedding.  There is also a huge farmer's market every Friday.

We all made the pilgrammage from where we parked to City Hall only to learn it was closed.  Crazy Italians, huh?  So we went to the farmer's market.  It seems like no matter where you go to these things they are all about the same.  Crappy junk everywhere, knock-off handbags, cheesy clothing made in China.  Also, be on the lookout for pickpockets.  I had my pickpocket radar on full scan when a small gypsy woman approached me begging for euros.  Chuck shooed her away but she was soon back.  I told her "NO, grazie!"  and she started to weep.  Even I, the biggest rube you'll ever meet, knew it was an act.

There were several stalls selling homemade cheeses and sausages and we had many samples.  Yum.

An amazing array of fresh pastries:

This area in Italy grows a unique radiccio that is quite delicious.

Beautiful tomatoes that actually taste like tomatoes.

By this time, Leonardo had met us and of course knew about everyone at the market.  This might explain all the samples.  He started quizzing us on what sort of seafood we liked.  There was a huge booth there selling all kinds.  After taking careful inventory, he met with the fish monger, an interesting fellow with dreadlocks and then made a phone call.

The fish market

Leonardo discussing seafood options with The Chuck

We cruised back to a restaurant in the theater district.  I got whiplash looking at all the frescoes adorning many of the buildings.  The buildings and the frescoes were centuries old and so very beautiful.  The name of the restaurant was called Ristorante Teatro.  Leonardo of course knew the owner who ushered us back to a small room which  was also the monthly meeting spot for the local Vespa club.  It was charming.  Plates of food magically appeared with the ever-present prosecco.  Chuck had met another guy that was a friend of Leonardo's.  This fellow was a sculptor and marble repair specialist.  In about an hour Leonardo's phone rang.

"Andiamo!" Leonardo commanded.  Where to next? We walked on past more frescos with Chuck and his friend stopping about every 10 paces to discuss marble.  Finally we made it to a nondescript restaurant.  Who but to greet us but the dreadlocked fish monger?

The Fish Monger

His mother and sister ran the restaurant and he had taken the seafood order.  A huge table was already set up with other patrons already in place.  Later I learned that the state-appointed vineyard inspector guy was sharing a meal with us.  He looked like Martin Scorcese.

One of innumerable platters being passed around

The food, of course was amazing, and once again I avoided the spaniel eyes because Gary was sitting right next to me.

That’s Gary on the right, seated next to Lynne.  

Then we strolled (or in my case, waddled) back to the car.  It took some time because of prosecco-infused marble discussions occurred frequently.

I dozed off, only to be awakened at yet another bistro.  Mamma Mia!

December 27, part III

Lynne is an ex-CNN anchor, tall, statuesque, and very beautiful.  She is also very intelligent and fun to be with.

Miss Lynne

Chuck and Lynne will be married on July 4, in a small town not far from here, Conegliano.  The marriage is to take place at a friend's vineyard, Leonardo.  We set off to a pizza joint in Conigliano to meet up with Leonardo.  Chuck wanted to discuss wedding details with him.  Or so we thought.

Two pizzas were ordered (they were great) and I thought we were done.  Stupido!  Then a huge bowl of puttanesca over pasta.  Then dessert.  When we first arrived, (8:00 PM) I thought the joint was closed.  Slowly, steadily, a stream of people arrived so by 11:00 the place was packed.  We were all about dead.  Chuck and Leonardo wanted to show us around the city square, a walk they assured us was just about a half mile, all told.

What wasn't told was that this walk involved stopping into just about every little bistro, where of course everyone knew Leonardo.  Large, HUGE plates of cold cuts and cheese followed, with bottomless glasses of prosecco.   And big spaniel eyes put on you if you didn't eat your fair share.  Luckily, I was sitting next to Gary on each of these forays so there was no problem.  One little bistro was playing an amped-up version of The Tennessee Waltz. Go figure.

The Chuck Holding Court in a Bistro

The last bistro we entered had a live band belting out a very energetic version of St. James Infirmary Blues.  I was pressed to dance but still having my wits about me, declined.

We made it back to the car and back to Nogherazza at about 2:00 AM.  Whew.

December 27, 2013, Part II

I hadn't mentioned that there had been a steady, cold rain for the entire time we'd been in Belluno.  After looking at the shrine dedicated to the four brothers that were hanged by the Nazis, Chuck herded us to a little bar about a block down the street.

It was very small.  Chuck said this was the place where the Nazis had dragged the four brothers out to their death.  We ordered cappucinos to warm up while Chuck started conversing with the bartender.  She was the owner and her daughter and son-in-law and three grandchildren were visiting from Rome.  The kids were bouncing off the walls because of the rain.  Soon Chuck had identified Jack and Lee as Howard Chappell's children and yes, they all remembered Howard Chappell.  The panacello (Christmas cake) was offered which Chuck strongly suggested we accept.  We did, of course, as well as a round of Italian champagne, Prosecco.

Panacello in the Little Bar

It turned out that the four doomed brothers had a sister  that was still alive that the owner saw occasionally.  Jack  left a message for her, conveying his gratitude for her brother's great sacrifice; and his email address.  I hope she responds.

The proprietor would not charge us anything for the cappucinos, cake, nor prosecco.  We left after a while and hugs were exchanged all around.

It was late all we were all tired except for Chuck, of course.  I don't know what he runs on but whatever it is, I wish I had some of it.  We headed for Nogherazza to pick up Chuck's fiancee, Lynne.

December 27, 2013

Breakfast comes early, especially for jet-lagged Americans.  We're pressed into showing up at the Nogherazza dining room at 8:00.  This after an evening that ended at 12 AM-ish.  Riding herd on us is Chuck de Caro.

We go to meet the last living Partizane, who also remembers Jack's dad.The partizane's name is Albino, pronounced "Ahl-BEEN-oh."  He is in his very late 80's with failing eyesight.  He has a nice office and wife, Rosa, and a son, Evo, pronounced "Ah-VEE-o.”

Evo, Rosa, Albino, Lee, & Jack in Albino’s Office

Albino was 14 years old when Jack's dad, Howard, parachuted into Caprelle.  Albino's family provided a home for Howard and safekeeping, knowing full well that if they were discovered by the Germans that occupied Caprelle, the entire family would be put to death.  Albino's nickname was “The Little Pigeon" and he delivered messages to and from partizane factions.  This was easily punishable by death as well.

Albino in his youth, “The Little Pigeon”

Sitting in Albino's office and listening to Chuck speak with him in Italian and then translate brought the horrors of this war suddenly home to me.  No longer were they just printed words on a page of a history book.  These people were willing to sacrifice their entire families.  I hid my face in my hands and pretended to have a coughing fit.

Albino, Evo, and Chuck

Partisane Statue in Albino’s Office

Rosa brought round an Italian version of a fruitcake - panecella.  It's a single layer cake baked in a paper souffle ring and it's about 14 inches tall.  Slices of panecella all round, and grappa to wash it down with.  Never, never, drink grappa.  This stuff will wipe the chrome off a bumper hitch.  It must be a zillion proof.  Suddenly my coughing fit was in earnest.

We left, presently, and went to another little nearby village where there was a monument.  The monument was for four partizani brothers that were discovered to be conspiring with the Americans. They were given away be the American cigarette butts the Nazis found near their home.  They were all four hung in the little village's square.

December 25, 2013 Part II

I will pick up where I left off on my previous blog:

We are seated with much fanfare at a table of honor in the packed dining room at Nogherazzi.  The "scraps" the chef has selected to feed us with are yummy, mostly unknown, and I gave up counting how many courses we were served after course #5.  The chef comes out of the kitchen to personally distribute each course with great flourish and dignity.  Imagine my dismay to discover he also inspects the remains of each course and if the plate is not completely cleaned he fixes the diner with great big sad spaniel eyes.  I am speaking of course, about me.  Luckily, sitting to my right is my brother-in-law Gary who evidently has a bottomless stomach.  He whispers to me: " Psst!  Swap plates with me! "  Problem solved, and I am no longer guilted to death.

The Christmas Party at Nogherazza

December 25, 2013

Arrived at Nogherazza after getting lost a bunch of times.  I lost count how many.

Nogherazza is on the side of a mountain, about midway up.  There's a big pasture in front where two horses live.  It's been rainy and foggy all day and the horses look pretty miserable.

It wasn't bad getting lost - we went through numerous small villages, all right off a postcard.  Lots of old, big houses that are deserted.  They look to be centuries old.  Lots of vineyards.

Jack's friend (and mine as well) Chuck deCaro was soon bursting through the door of our room, once again larger than life.  He's getting married July 4 here and Jack is to be an usher.  Too bad for me, I have to work.  : (

Jack and Chuck have headed to the train station in Belluno to pick up Jack's sister Lee & her husband Gary.  I'd thought to take a nap because I am jet-lagged to death but I can't keep my eyes closed.

The only photo I've taken so far is of a cool marble lamp that was in the lobby of the Mariott where we stayed last night:

There is a ten-course Christmas dinner going on in the restaurant portion of Nogherazza right now, and according to Chuck it is quite the occasion.  But it's been sold out for weeks so Chuck said he'd ask for table scraps.

The hotel portion is a converted estate that was part of a vineyard.  It's very beautiful in a rustic sense.  The roof is crisscrossed with hand-hewn beams that were probably around when Christ was a child.

Haven't checked to see if there's hot water here yet.

December 24, 2013

Man, I am tired.  We are in Venice, finally.  The clock says it's 7:30PM but it may as well be the end of time.

The plane out of Houston was delayed for 2 hours.  This translates into us missing our flight connection out of London.

Kids, never, never, ever fly out of, or into, Heathrow.  I am serious.  I never saw so many people compressed in a very small place in my life.  We finally got out of there (thank God for first class tix) and flew to Rome and then Venice.  I didn't sleep much on the plane from Houston but of course Jack did.  So he fared better than me.

But we are here and I believe the miseries are behind us.  At least until we go back to Las Vegas, anyway.  Jack is in the shower and I am a few seconds from falling fast asleep.  Did you know you have to have a room card to turn the lights on in hotel rooms in Venice?  We didn't, and there is not a light switch to be found.  Interesting.

December 23, 2013

I am so upset because My keyboard doesn't work.  I am trying something new using voice recognition stage from my computer.

So much for that.

We're in Houston in the British Airlines flight lounge.  The attendant is very helpful.  We're trying to resolve a nearly $700 baggage fee.  Evidently this will involve numerous phone calls and faxes.  Maybe this will be the last glitch of the trip.  We had a devil of a time getting checked in at Las Vegas   Because this is an international flight involving two airlines, it takes a great deal of doing to simply allow us to board.  But we have made it this far.

Maybe my keyboard will come around.  Maybe this is the last glitch.  Makes you realize just how many moving parts there are in trying to do the simplest thing.

A New Blog for a Great Adventure

Jack and I will embark on a 6-week tour of Italy on Monday.  This blog will (hopefully) chronicle our adventures.  Stay tuned!